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Digging around the interwebs I think I need to seal the wood, use an oil finish, then a urethane. Jon Peters used Teak Oil … I compared boiled linseed oil to danish oil and pure tung oil on some smaller pieces of sapele before choosing boiled linseed oil. • Film finishes, especially better-quality ones that flex after curing, best protect wood … I made a tree swing seat 8.5” x 28” x 2” using Sapele. #9: … #7: Our exclusive all-in-one cutting board maintenance kit, with mineral oil, wood wax and applicator cloth. • Once damaged, wood fibers separate from the underlying wood, taking the finish with them. I’m an amateur woodworker and do not have much experience finishing. Dyes impart some color to the finish but do little to block UV rays. Thinning is a good idea as it helps the oil saturate the wood’s pores. Remember that using oil … • Nothing blocks UV rays better than pigments. #8: John Boos Mystery Oil, made for butcher blocks, countertops and cutting boards. best … That would be my approach but adding any amount of oil will help. I would start at 1:1, then 2BLO:1Thinner and finish at 3BLO:1Thinner. I would do a couple coats decreasing the ratio. In general, adding the oil brings a bit more richness to the color, though with Sapaele, you probably don't need it. I've done the Danish Oil + Lacquer finish a few times, not on Sapele though. I made a dining table with a sapele top and finished the tabletop with three coats of boiled linseed oil on the top, bottom, and sides, and 10 coats of polyurethane on the top with 2 coats on the bottom and sides. Kit, with mineral oil, made for butcher blocks, countertops and boards! Any amount of oil will help x 2 ” using Sapele would start at 1:1, then and! 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