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But, if you look at the image in the ad, these hooks are large, on the outside of the dress, just like mine. A few folks suggested that it might be a 70s remake, that her dresses typically had natural or high waists so the drop waist was probably not her design. Eventually, however, a buyer from Manhattan’s Best and Company ordered 100 Monastic dresses and ran a full page advertisement on … Was it a label added later? She had wrap dresses in her line from the 40s through her death in the late 50s, though … Working after graduation as a fit model for B. Altman and Company, McCardell later obtained a job as a salesperson and design assistant with Emmet Joyce, an exclusi… This was her Monastic dress, a dress that had no front, back, or waistline and that tied to suit the wearer. Soon afterward, Turk moved to a larger company, Townley Frocks, and brought McCardell with him. Building a vintage closet, Step 1: Who are you? This leads me to think that it was something put on mass-produced dresses, but maybe only for that store? It was extremely successful and widely copied by mass retailers. One of her own? McCardell's first success was in 1938 with the bias-cut, no-waist, free-flowing "Monastic Dress." The wrinkle in that theory is the advertisement my friend found (the one I can’t post a picture of) that was for a Syracuse department store–an illustration of the label is very prominent across the top of the page. "Monastic" dress in accordion-pleated grey worsted wool jersey; straight; below-knee length; single-button rolled collar; keyhole opening center front bust; unpleated 3/4-length raglan sleeves; underbust waistline piped by spaghetti cord cross-wrapping and tying at center front waist; hip-seam pockets; no closure. Sadly, McCardell succumbed to cancer on March 22, 1958, at age 52. The dress on the left is my dress design, though this one is a different fabric – mine is a wool rayon blend, that appears like a jersey from the outside but a rayon underneath. Of course, all my Claire things are also among the most expensive things I’ve ever bought, but I am so glad I have them. In 1938, Claire McCardell introduced the “Monastic Dress” which effectively launched her career and, according to Time Magazine, “gave American fashion a new flexibility it has never lost.” 16 “Loose-hanging and cut on the bias,” the dress did not gain much notice at first. I don’t have an image of this to share, unfortunately, but I’m still looking–if there was one advertisement out there, there are bound to be more. A month before the spring showing in 1931, Turk tragically drowned and McCardell was left responsible for completing the collection. She was the first one to use denim and zippers in her designs. Her first success was the tent-shaped Monastic dress, which had no form, but when belted became body-revealing and flattering. Flexibility of fit. Building a vintage closet, step 2: Elements of style, Building a vintage closet, step 3: Assessing assets, Building a vintage closet, preamble to part 4: Before you shop, Building a Vintage Closet: a few quick notes. McCardell’s solution was a $6.95 dress called the Pop-over, which had a large, useful pocket and an attached oven mitt (see here, at The Met). McCardell's contributions to the fashion industry include metal closures, blue-jean stitching, mix and match separates, and the influence of menswear in women's designs. Other than that, Claire McCardell was a pretty creative designer. Required fields are marked *. This could be a bit of a long shot – but maybe it wasn’t a production dress at all? She also worked for a … The Claire McCardell Project is the creation of a larger-than-life bronze sculpture that will pay homage to the designer in her hometown. Claire McCardell created a revolutionary choice. Ayres & Co., 1942. From shop monicajveronica1. So that’s legit. The Monastic Dress was shift-like, loose sleeves, monk-like dress that could be worn full, hanging from the shoulders and it could be worn with or without a belt. Claire McCardell’s Monastic dress was first presented in 1938. She copied the latest styles from Paris and the collection sold well, although it was moderately received. In-seam pockets, of course. Your email address will not be published. Then, in 1938 McCardell launched her famous 'Monastic Dress', a shapeless bias-cut dress that was worn with a belt to cinch the waist. McCardell left Townley Frocks for a brief time and went to Hattie Carnegie (1938-1940), where she worked alongside Norman Norell. Samuel Winston v. Charles James Services, Inc. The dress I was making had a very similar cut, so I had an “aha” moment about how the futuristic dress was constructed. McCardell had several other successful designs which stayed in her collections, with slight changes, for years. But as a collector and admirer of her work, a few things were a bit off about it. In the course of her studies she spent one year in Paris. It was extremely successful and widely copied by mass retailers. But then I came across this image from 1943: This is from Vogue, June 15, 1943. The biggest part of this mystery is the label in the dress. The idea of separates, in coordinating colors and creating endless configurations was revolutionary, because of its practicality and economy. Then, in 1938 McCardell launched her famous 'Monastic Dress', a shapeless bias-cut dress that was worn with a belt to cinch the waist. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Much of her clothing was truly ready to wear, contingent on the wearer and adaptable in size. In 1927 McCardell transferred to the Parsons branch in Paris at the Place des Vosges. In 1942 she designed the 'Pop-over' dress, a wrap dress that was meant to be popped-over pants, bathing suit or the bare skin. But the hooks on this clearly go below the waist, and the skirt starts at hip level. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. ©2020 Fashion Institute of Technology Talk:Claire McCardell Jump to ... specifically a paragraph on McCardell's relationship to modernism and why her Monastic dress carried such meaning for American women and style. Culture: American. Among them were the Mademoiselle Merit Award, Coty American Fashion Critics Award, Nieman-Marcus Award, and Women's National Press Club Award. Hooks ” Vogue, June 15, 1943 reportedly shared equal billing the., with slight changes, for years idea of separates, in black a knockoff her to! ( American, 1905–1958 ) Manufacturer: Townley Frocks, and website this! ( American, founded 1929 ) Date: 1949, 1958, at age 52 there, she reportedly equal! Mccardell trademark wrap-front jacket is secured with her Monastic design, the sweep of wool! Didn ’ t found any other information or advertising for that store yet success.: Townley Frocks ( American, 1905–1958 ) Manufacturer: Townley Frocks, and McCardell. Townley Frocks, and began making her own clothes during her early adolescence Date: 1949 in coordinating colors creating. Success was in 1938 with the bias-cut, no-waist, free-flowing `` dress! Off about it and admirer of her clothing was truly ready to wear, on... Own clothes during her early adolescence ’ s Monastic dress. wool dress be.: who are you collection sold well, although it was extremely successful and widely copied by mass.. The label in the dress. first published in 1956, what Shall I wear credit line Gift!, founded 1929 ) Date: 1949 to find when McCardell rejoined the Townley firm in 1940, she hands-on... 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